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Bamboo Review: Cook Food

BooksFoodBamboo Reviews

Since tomorrow’s a big ol’ holiday, unless something really important comes up, I’m taking the day off.  But before I go fishing, I thought I’d review this awesome (and at $8 incredibly inexpensive) cookbook that Lisa Jervis just put out and sent to me: Cook Food: A Manualfesto for Easy, Healthy, Local Eating.  It’s about making simple, mostly vegan food based around ingredients you can buy in bulk or from local farmer’s markets, to minimize packaging and maximize sustainability.  But what’s really awesome about it is that Jervis writes it for anyone at any level trying to start cooking in this way.  If you are used to microwaving your food and don’t even know the difference between a stock pot and a sauce pan, Jervis has a section explaining most of the basics that you’ll need to know to cook vegan/vegetarian food.

I like cooking, but breezing through the short, incredibly easy-to-understand chapter “tips and techniques” made me realize how much I didn’t know that’s actually pretty simple, like how to use salt while cooking.  And even for people that are hip to things that I just never picked up on like that, I think this book is really useful because it teaches you, in the space of about 15 minutes worth of reading, how to cook vegetables, which a lot of people don’t understand.  Don’t fear the greens!  You can cook them so they’ll be edible.  Grains also intimidate a lot of people, but after reading Jervis, you’ll realize it’s not that scary.  And tofu!  It wasn’t until over the Christmas holiday that another vegetarian friend showed me the secret to making good tofu (drain it), but if I’d read this book sooner, I would already have it down.  Plus, her technique is easier than the one my friend showed me.  Once you eat really well-prepared tofu, I promise you’ll never crinkle your nose and say “yuck, tofu” again.  To make it all that much easier on you, she also has a chapter on what to stock in your kitchen, both in tools and food to just have on hand.  The tools section is really helpful for people who don’t know where to start, and Jervis makes sure to explain what you can feel relatively at ease buying for nothing at thrift stores, and what you probably need to spend money on, or ask your mom to buy you for your birthday. 

Seriously, the problem I run into with so many cookbooks, even the ones that purport to make it easy on you, is that they assume that you know things that you may not know.  Jervis assumes nothing, and even for people that are used to trying out new recipes in the kitchen, that’s helpful.  To make it even better, she has a section on just quick things to whip up when it’s just you eating, or you don’t feel like cooking.  Not many popular chefs out there are really in the business of giving you ideas for quick, simple stuff to eat for lunch or breakfast, even though a lot of people would really appreciate those ideas, particularly if they’re trying to cut back on their meat and dairy consumption but are left with the question: but then what do I eat for lunch? 

So, $8.  Get the book.  It takes like half an hour to read the main parts, and then you have some recipes on hand and a huge section telling you where to find more, particularly online.  And enjoy your 4th of July, dirty hippie patriots!

 

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Posted by Amanda Marcotte on 07:08 PM • (19) Comments

I wlll. Thanks for the rec! I’m good at baking but not cooking really so anything is helpful.

Comment #1: Danica Lefse Queen  on  07/03  at  08:57 PM

The secret to making good tofu is more than “drain it”.  What works really well with the firm types is to press it.  This takes a couple of plates and a cast iron skillet, perhaps a teapot of water in the skillet for extra firm.

Drying it out like this makes all the difference in the world.

Comment #2: Ms Kate  on  07/03  at  09:28 PM

Thanks! I was feeling a little overwhelmed with Veganomicon (and a few other cookbooks, but that was a recent purchase) although a lot of it sounds really tasty. I have barely any time to cook, doing work with rotating hours and school full-time. I also have a horrible kitchen with a total of 2’ of counter space and no dishwasher, so recipes that require lots of counter space for various ingredients, many gadgets, etc. just don’t get made. Plus I really want to do more local, we have some nice farmer’s markets but I’m in upstate NY, some things just aren’t going to be local.
Personally, I love frozen/thawed tofu - the chewier the better for me, but the spongey texture turns some off.

Comment #3: Tenya  on  07/03  at  10:13 PM

Damn! I have no money, but I’m tempted.

Comment #4: Samantha Vimes  on  07/03  at  10:39 PM

I just moved into a new place that is literally next door to a Farmer’s Market, so I have to check this out.

Comment #5: Ben D.  on  07/03  at  10:56 PM

I will be buying this so that my teen son will prepare me things.

Comment #6: Ms Kate  on  07/03  at  11:39 PM

Oh, Amanda, I have tried excellent tofu in very nice restaurants prepared by chefs who forgot more about cooking than I will ever know.  It is still disgusting.  Sorry.  I will pick this up for the veggie cooking tips, though.

Comment #7: bomberE  on  07/03  at  11:56 PM

You know the magic thing I discovered living in Japan ? Just take anything, cut it up in pieces, put it in a pan, pour mirin sake and soy sauce liberally, add some water to get the level of liquid up, and let boil until it looks cooked. Add miso if you like that.
And whatever it is, it will be delicious.
Well, okay, I only tried that with eggplant, peppers and potatoes up to now (meat too, but the challenge is making vegetarian meals), and I haven’t gotten the cooking time on potatoes quite right… But it’s heartening for the future.

Comment #8: Caravelle  on  07/04  at  02:14 AM

You can cheat on the potatoes by nuking them for 2 minutes first.  I do that all the time to save overall cooking time.  You can still easily cut them up after this much precooking - they just take far less time to finish.

Comment #9: Ms Kate  on  07/04  at  02:17 AM

Caravelle:

Just take anything, cut it up in pieces, put it in a pan, pour mirin sake and soy sauce liberally, add some water to get the level of liquid up, and let boil until it looks cooked. Add miso if you like that.

And whatever it is, it will be delicious.

Anyone who can improvise a meal wins dinnertime. The best kitchen tool you have isn’t a gadget or book of any kind, it’s a developed palate. Cookbooks are a nice starting place, but I’ve never met a recipe that was so good exactly as written that I couldn’t find a way to change it.

Comment #10: Dan, Grand High Emperor of Bananas Foster  on  07/04  at  04:39 AM

Mark Bittman is another cookbook writer who lays everything out for you. “How to Cook Everything” (or for the veggy types, “How to Cook Everything Vegetarian”) really lives up to its promise.

Comment #11: Frank  on  07/04  at  06:24 AM

Jervis pretty much commands you to improvise these recipes.  They’re more like baselines, and, page-wise, only take up half the book.

Comment #12: Amanda Marcotte  on  07/04  at  09:28 AM

For extra tofu points, freeze and then thaw, as mentioned upthread. The ‘fu gets a nice chewy texture and also soaks up whatever marinades you’re using like nobody’s business.

And I second the recommendation of How to Cook Everything Vegetarian.  It’s especially good for those “I just bought [thing I have no idea how to use] at the supermarket/farmer’s market, what do I do now?” moments.  He’s also really good about providing substitutions for ingredients.

Comment #13: LauraB  on  07/04  at  12:07 PM

Another good improvisatory cook is Nigel Slater, though he does love his meat. The Kitchen Diaries is the record of a year’s cooking, basically recording the thought processes and shopping and gardening that goes into each day’s meals. One of this big points is that dinner doesn’t have to be a big preparation: it can be a noodle soup or good bread and cheese, if the ingredients are good and the time is right.

Comment #14: pseudonymous in nc  on  07/04  at  04:47 PM

added it to the wish list.  Sounds like a good read.

Comment #15: AVSN  on  07/04  at  07:57 PM

pseud/nc:

It’s actually very hard to find a good book on improvisational cooking. I’ve been doing cookbook reviews for quite a long time and the only one I’ve found so far that comes even close to adequate is Ratio by Michael Ruhlman, and even that’s rather limited by a somewhat narrow problem domain; Jacques Pepin’s Complete Techniques also does a pretty good job but is IMHO too comprehensive to qualify.

Most of the ones I’ve seen out there—Pam Anderson’s How To Cook Without A Book is an egregious (and highly ironically titled) example—just don’t do the job very well. For lack of a specific book on the subject, you’re better off just going with a cookbook that presents master recipes and variations. Julia Child, for example, did a very large amount of this.

Comment #16: BrianX  on  07/05  at  01:16 AM

People who don’t like tofu might as well say, “I don’t like bread.”  There is literally that much variation in how it can be prepared… Here in the US we usually see it as little bland cubes stored shelf-stable.  Or maybe marinated.  But it can be crispy, skins, braised, grilled, made of fermented soy beans (tempeh) or anywhere from pudding to leather consistency and you might even consider seitan (wheat) also a variant.

Alas.

Comment #17: Crissa  on  07/05  at  06:16 AM

Crissa, there are people who don’t like bread. Really, tofu is still tofu, and there are just gonna be people who don’t like it.

And Amanda, tsk, here we are over being frugal in the other thread and you want us to BUY the book instead of hitting the library? wink

Comment #18: mythago  on  07/05  at  07:37 PM

Tofu is for delivering up Mount Haruna at full speed, not fer eatin’.

Comment #19: Sarcastro  on  07/06  at  12:54 PM
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