Login

Register

Member List

RSS Feed

Amanda | Contact

Auguste | Contact

Jesse | Contact

Pam | Contact

Next entry: Racism Is Like A Box Of Chocolates: Generally Brown, And Kind Of Sweet Previous entry: Friday Genius Ten “Cassettes!” Edition

The Good, the Bad, the Early 90s

FashionHistoryMusic

I know everyone’s talking about the Nobel Peace Prize, but that’s why I can’t think of anything to say that hasn’t been said.  So I’m writing about this instead.

Back during SXSW, I noted that the 80s were back in the most full-throated way.  I need to revise that opinion slightly.  It’s more like the late 80s/early 90s are hitting a high nostalgia peak, and they should be taken as one era, much in the way that the late 60s/early 70s are really one era.  But the fact that the nostalgia/inspiration trip has moved from the New Wave era to the late 80s/early 90s became impossible to deny after seeing !!! last weekend.  There were small-brimmed hats, and those baggy tank tops with the giant arm holes, people.  Moreover, their main inspiration was obviously the Happy Mondays.  Witness, right down to the slow mo applied to the bizarre close-ups of the dancing:

The Vivian Girls don’t sound early 90s, but they have the look down cold:

And cassette tapes.  Good lord, how long before CDs get a nostalgia revival?  Like all eras, this one had the good and the bad.  Public Enemy was dominant, but so was Vanilla Ice.  There was some top of the line dance pop, like the Happy Mondays or the Divinyls, but there was also Right Said Fred. 

Pro: Heavy bass.  It really took off in terms of popularity back then, and I still like putting something like the Mondays on in Marc’s car, equipped with a decently large subwoofer, and jamming out. 

Con: Dorkiness.  In many forms—-silly dances, everything involved with the movie “Singles”, and especially the wearing of really stupid looking hats. 

Pro: Comfy clothes.
I spent most of my junior high and high school years without even an ounce of discomfort from my clothing.  Cotton, loose-fitting pants, baggy shirts, tossing a ratty cardigan on for warmth, sundresses, Doc Martens, Chuck Taylors, and yes even the flannel shirts that had their grunge heyday.  There is something noble about practicality in clothing, and making comfort a priority. 

Con: Pantlessness.
  Comfort is good, but it got way out of control, and the worst offender was the sudden enthusiasm for pantlessness, an enthusiasm that has come back in full force.  Giant baggy sweatshirts that barely cover the butt, long men’s dress shirts held together with a belt, pieces that aren’t long enough to be dresses but not short enough to be shirts—-all were worn without pants, justified by the presence of the ubiquitous legging.  As someone who personally committed this offense in my wayward youth, I beg of young women of today: Please wear pants.  Or skirts. Or dresses.  But a sweatshirt that barely covers your ass over leggings does not an outfit make. And if your leggings have stirrups or at cut off above the ankle, shame on you.  Tucking legging into your socks or boots doesn’t improve the situation.  It makes you like a distorted comic book character.  If you give into the siren call of the legging, you will regret it.  I have personally witnessed women of my generation burn cherished family photos rather than have anyone see what they wore.

I had paisley-patterned leggings in junior high school, that I would wear with an oversized purple shirt.  Don’t let yourself become a victim like me.

Pro: Natural hair.  For a brief, shining moment in the late 80s/early 90s, it suddenly became hip to not fuck with your hair too much.  Don’t perm it, straighten it, dye it, or get overly fancy haircuts.  (The one exception to that rule is men and some women who shaved patterns into their hair.)  It probably had something to do with the ban on fluorocarbons, which meant that crazy amounts of hairspray wasn’t working anymore.  I wore my hair long and straight down my back.  Actually, I still do, with just the addition of bangs.  But there was a dark period in the late 90s/early 2000s where I actually dyed my hair and cut it shorter at times in an effort to have something close to a style.  Fuck that noise.  Now, I comb it and pull it back.  Occasionally wash it.  Very 90s, and totally back in style.

Pro, part two: Clean-scrubbed look.  Wearing a lot of make-up wasn’t really a thing, either.  This is a remarkable, time-saving innovation.

Con: Weak-assed hippie shit.  Of course, the reason a lot of these common sense innovations were part of our lives was not just due to the grunge-y direction that punk rock took, but also because there was a nostalgia trip for the 60s that concentrated heavily on white-washed flower child imagery, which meant that flowers appeared on those awful short brim hats.  Paisley, daisies, and other offenses against common sense flourished.  Remember, this resulted in great national shames like the Spin Doctors and Blind Melon, and there’s no amount of reconciliation that will make up for that.  There was a brief surge of wide-ankled jeans—-some bona fide bell bottoms—-that helped make up for this, but they weren’t on the market long enough, and just collapsed back into boot cut.  But at least it did end the reign of terror that is known as the tapered ankle jean.  (No wonder women gave up on pants.)

Pro-ish: Okay, some hippie shit I like.  That said, I had a pair of wooden clogs that were comfortable, sexy, and went with everything, but especially my stove pipe jeans, which I wore until they fell apart after the third time I patched the butt up.  I have never been able to find a pair of wooden clogs quite like those.  All I find are a little off somehow.  I miss those fucking shoes, even though it’s been 15 years since they died.

So how about you?  What would you love to see come back, and what would you hope never to see again?

 

------

Registration is now required! We're still in the process of getting it all squared away, so for the moment don't forget to Login or Register using the links in the upper left menu before starting to write your comment.

Posted by Amanda Marcotte on 05:27 PM • (38) Comments

On sans pants, I blame Michael Stipe. He’s was sporting kilts and dresses in the late 80s/early 90s.

Comment #1: Roxanne  on  10/09  at  05:38 PM

Well, dudes in skirts is not something I’m prepared to be against.  That was sexy, on the right guy.  But leggings don’t look good on anyone.

Comment #2: Amanda Marcotte  on  10/09  at  05:43 PM

Oh, god, I hope that poet shirts don’t come back! Those were *so* awful. Everyone who wore them looked like they stepped off the pages of International Male. And also, Blossom hats, the kind with the brim turned up in the front. I also hope that smiley-face imagery stays away, as well as jeans with those stripes down the side, remember those? They sometimes had buttons on the side, too, like warm-up pants. Oh, also, remember the ultra-severe wedge cuts that went just to the middle of the ear, and made everyone’s heads look like a mushroom? Those were bad. And also, any bangs that require hairspray.

I’m liking leggings as a trend, if for no other reason than it extends skirt-wearing season into the autumn. I hope that scrunch socks come back. Those were cool. Construction boots were fun and comfy. And I’m really looking forward to flannels, and chokers with gaudy baubles on them.

Comment #3: Jenny Dreadful  on  10/09  at  05:47 PM

We were watching “Dangerous Minds” this morning.  It was weird.  When we were kids in the mid to late 90s (I know, a little later than this thread is talking, but I’ve got a point!), we’d watch our parents cringe at the shit they wore a decade ago.  We watched something today from a decade and a half ago and don’t cringe.  We’re just like “Whoa, nice Airwalks.”  I’m really happy that we’ve been tasteful enough as a generation to not have to look back on idiocy like shoes with gold fish in them or freakishly large bell bottoms.  I think the worst thing we have to look back on is JNCOs.

I had to pull out my photos from that era.  I still have the same orange hoodie I had as a high school freshman.  I call it the Orange Hoodie of Doom.

Comment #4: Spooky Skeptic  on  10/09  at  05:50 PM

I don’t know.  I keep seeing 1984 and 1983 walkl by.  I almost stop to ask how they like the future, and offer a little advice on how to do the eye makeup properly, but then I see the facial piercings and realize it’s just affectation.

Comment #5: Caren-Sun-blocking Creator of Animorphic Pancakes  on  10/09  at  06:25 PM

I think the natural hair thing can go too far.  In the morning I’m sometimes the only person on the bus who has brushed or pulled back hair.  I’m a recent convert to only washing my hair every other day, but, once the hair is noticeably greasy, and smelly, it’s time for a shower, no excuses.

Comment #6: keshmeshi  on  10/09  at  06:26 PM

Leggings worn as hose don’t bother me so much.  It’s when they are substitute pants that I draw the line.

Comment #7: Amanda Marcotte  on  10/09  at  06:34 PM

I was a small child in that era (born in ‘84) so for all I remember, this could have been just a little kid thing.  I really hope the hair scrunchie doesn’t come back.  Especially the ones that came with shirts, and were made of the same fabric.
I rather like putting leggings under long skirts, because you have more freedom of movement and warmth.  I hadn’t realized pantslessness was a look from that time, but I agree that it’s terrible.

Comment #8: Emaloo  on  10/09  at  06:34 PM

Emaloo, I’m the same age as you are.  And ditto on the scrunchies. 

But whoever is hoping for scrunch socks, I must disagree. 

Like Amanda, I would like so the the comfiness return to clothes, especially women’s clothes.  Men, they could have been wearing the same straight leg jeans and medium-fit t-shirt for the last two decaces, and no one would have noticed.  And I think there was a post a good while back about underwear, and Amanda, you said that this whole women-must-wear-fancy-lingerie-all-the-time thing is kinda new.  I’d love to kick that to the curb.

Comment #9: rowmyboat  on  10/09  at  06:47 PM

I’m so glad that somebody else, especially one with as impeccable taste as you, Amanda, is annoyed by stingy brim hats, too. They’re absolutely everywhere these days, and I don’t really understand it. I’m sure there are some folk who simply look better with smaller brims, but for the most part the standard 2” brim looks best on fedoras and trilbys. Something down to 1-1/2” might be ok for city wear, but honestly the crown height is more often an obstacle than the brim width is.

And don’t get me started on variable geometry brims, which are a completely absurd gimmick.

(If you can’t tell, I am a man who has strong opinions about hats.)

Comment #10: Tobasco da Gama  on  10/09  at  06:51 PM

I came of age in the 80’s and was already in my mid-tewnties when the 90’s rolled around. So as long as the 80’s stays way far away, I’m fine with that. The fashion anyway. I am too nostalgic over the music though. Much to my niece’s & nephew’s dismay.

Comment #11: Mark  on  10/09  at  06:51 PM

As an aside, I can attest that Rebecca Watson herself was spotted in a full-on Seattle grunge outfit shortly before departing Boston. Flannel shirt, boot-cut jeans, the whole nine. So I guess the style is coming back after all. wink

Comment #12: Tobasco da Gama  on  10/09  at  06:54 PM

Josephine Wiggs: Still my biggest musician crush.

A con to add: clashy colors, the worst offenders being Jams and that sports-hat pattern that started with Z….

Comment #13: whetstone  on  10/09  at  07:00 PM

Also NB the Breeders: if you haven’t heard their cover of “Shocker in Gloomtown,” get on that.

Comment #14: whetstone  on  10/09  at  07:00 PM

Well as far as music the 90s had some great stuff: Shoegaze (My Bloody Valentine, Ride, Slowdive), Brit-pop (Suede, Pulp, Blur, Elastica, Saint Etiene), Post-Rock (Disco Inferno, Talk Talk), Slow-core (Low, American Music Club), random American indie stuff (Unrest, Built to Spill, Modest Mouse, Pavement, Liz Phair)...
The clothes kinda sucked in my opinion though, at least the stuff here in the US.

Comment #15: AdamN  on  10/09  at  07:09 PM

Great job tracking down such close 1990s analogues for the !!! and Vivian Girls videos! Like someone-or-other said, Originality is the art of concealing your sources.

Comment #16: atheist  on  10/09  at  10:01 PM

Well it’s personal taste I suppose, but I’d love to see a return to androgyny as a viable style choice for straight women. Apart from that, my favourite things from that time include mixtapes (esp. the ones with elaborately designed felt-tipped track listings), art films influenced by B-movies and the return of suits as a casual option for men, slicked-back hair optional.

As a side point, the male public figures from that era were almost certainly sexier too, seeing as many of the male pinups of that era continue to be listed as ‘hollywood’s hottest stars’, etc. I’m thinking of Depp, Pitt, Reeves, McConaughey, etc. What a bunch of dreamboats, they were, eh?

Comment #17: Stubborn Kind of Fellow  on  10/09  at  11:32 PM

I spent most of my junior high and high school years without even an ounce of discomfort from my clothing.  Cotton, loose-fitting pants, baggy shirts, tossing a ratty cardigan on for warmth, sundresses, Doc Martens, Chuck Taylors, and yes even the flannel shirts that had their grunge heyday.  There is something noble about practicality in clothing, and making comfort a priority.

Though this may have been more the undergrad I attended, I loved the fact the only people who were given a hard time were those who made snide snarky remarks about others for not adhering to “high fashion” or people who insisted on wearing formal business attire when it wasn’t required. 

Considering how strongly they were reproached…it wasn’t long before we realized that making snide/negative remarks about others’ fashion choices was just not done there…a probable reason why one parent was quoted in a college guide entry of my undergrad as saying “students go out of their way to dress ugly here”.

Want to wear ripped up t-shirts and jeans that became ratty through actual overuse and abuse? Great! Want to attend class wearing tie dye shirts/dresses/pants and not showering for weeks/months, no one will openly mind as minding would be considered quite gauche.  Heck…wearing anything is cool unless it is formal business attire or is “too corporate”.  A total contrast to what I’ve seen on more mainstream campuses currently….especially in the NYC area like Columbia and NYU which seems like fashionista central for undergrads*.  :p

If only the Village and Morningside Heights could go back to the early-mid-‘90s when undergrads were more casual in the way they dressed on a daily basis. 

* Wearing attire on a daily basis which is often far more appropriate for the most formal corporate occasions….or dressing up for a night on the town.  It is one thing to do it during appropriate times such as campus recruiting day, interviews, recitals, or an actual night on the town….not for everyday classroom/hanging out on campus affairs.

Comment #18: exholt  on  10/10  at  02:07 AM

this whole women-must-wear-fancy-lingerie-all-the-time thing is kinda new.  I’d love to kick that to the curb

This.  Times a million.  I know women who are shocked that I own non-thong underwear, and even wear it! 

@Exholt;

At my undergrad you could always pick out the freshwomen come wintertime, as they wore cute but inappropriate coats, avoided hats/gloves/warm scarves, and tended to wear heels.  This rarely lasted for more than two weeks at my ice covered midwestern univeristy with the -40F wind chill.

Comment #19: Emaloo  on  10/10  at  03:12 AM

Three days ago in a UK train station I saw a teen getting off a train from london wearing stirrup pants and a plaid flannel shirt.

I swear.

Comment #20: SapphireCate  on  10/10  at  05:38 AM

The Happy Mondays sucked out loud.  That is all.

Comment #21: Rumblelizard  on  10/10  at  06:46 AM

Fashion wise, I remember being very surprised that the stereotypical grunge look was flannel shirts.  I was in Seattle from 88-92 and I don’t remember *anyone* wearing lumberjack shirts until after the whole thing broke nationally.  Maybe there were some, but they weren’t as rampant as those old Sub Pop photos would have you believe.

I do remember old jeans, Docs, plain t-shirts or retro-70’s polyester thrift store shirts, layers of long underwear beneath cutoffs, and the old reliable leather jacket.  And long hair.  Plenty of it.  I wouldn’t mind if hair farming became all the rage again, since I already still have it going.

Sound wise, I am so ready for the Swervedriver/K Records/classic Sub Pop sound to rule the universe again!  We’re already hearing those influences in the both the indie and underground metal scenes.

Comment #22: Dr. Locrian  on  10/10  at  10:00 AM

Ooh, but speaking of late 80’s, I remember really liking Perry Farrell’s crazy dreadlocked thrift store grandma look during the Nothing’s Shocking period.

Comment #23: Dr. Locrian  on  10/10  at  10:06 AM

I was seeing stirrup pants in my former locale (Amherst, MA) a year ago.  And I’d occasionally spot an acid-washed jacket.  It was surreal.

Comment #24: rowmyboat  on  10/10  at  12:18 PM

I know women who are shocked that I own non-thong underwear,

If you want to play “who’s grosser?” with them, point out that thong underwear causes vaginal infections because it marches poop germs up your cooter.

Comment #25: Amanda Marcotte  on  10/10  at  03:40 PM

Hah, just yesterday I was perusing the net for some nice tall doc martins to wear with my dresses =) I also miss the clunky higher heels. I had some awesome boots that I could run in, black leather, with nice thick heels that gave a little.
Also, I quite enjoy flannel, especially when camping.

Comment #26: yazikus  on  10/10  at  05:49 PM

Rumblelizard, that may be all from you but you’re dead wrong, !!! are a fraction of their goodness. Don’t want to start a music argument, just saying.

Comment #27: Stubborn Kind of Fellow  on  10/10  at  07:01 PM

i worked in a middle school in portland for a while and while i’ve been hearing my anti-hipster friends say “tights are not pants” for a long time now, i heard it most recently as a schoolwide announcement.

Comment #28: cedarcrane  on  10/10  at  08:27 PM

Wait, there’s a trend by which people are wearing more hats?

Comment #29: FlipYrWhig  on  10/10  at  09:34 PM

Men, they could have been wearing the same straight leg jeans and medium-fit t-shirt for the last two decaces, and no one would have noticed.

Hmm.  Men’s T-shirts—and shirts in general—got much, much snugger during that time.  I used to buy everything in extra-large, and might even move up to XXL for a sweater or sweatshirt.  Now I swing back and forth between M and L.  And over that time men were slowly but surely convinced to care about the sexiness of first their stomachs, then their asses.

Comment #30: FlipYrWhig  on  10/10  at  09:41 PM

(My memories of the late ‘80s and early ‘90s are all related to college.  It could be that people who were doing other things were less baggy and grubby than we were.)

Comment #31: FlipYrWhig  on  10/10  at  09:43 PM

gawd, this makes me wanna listen to some smashing pumpkins.

here’s your 90s style…is it wrong that i want this? looks so comfy, and makes me think of borrowing my much taller guy friend’s flannel in high school…

http://www.karmaloop.com/products.aspx?ProductID=60012&VendorCode=BBD&utm_source=unisex&utm_medium=email_HTML&utm_content=WOMENSTOP1&utm_campaign=week4109

Comment #32: chibi  on  10/10  at  11:58 PM

I think the worst thing we have to look back on is JNCOs.

that depends on whether you are old enough to remember skidz and z. cavariccis.

Comment #33: chibi  on  10/11  at  12:14 AM

“Wait, there’s a trend by which people are wearing more hats?”

not around here

Im the only one I know who habitually wears a hat, and I only do it because im bald and sunburn on your scalp is incredibly painful

Comment #34: jefft452  on  10/11  at  12:27 AM

gawd, this makes me wanna listen to some smashing pumpkins.

I feel the same about blasting Green Day and Cranberries and even attempting to play “Basket Case” with a recently acquired like-new used Mexican-made Blue H-S-S Fender Strat at a substantial discount.  smile

Comment #35: exholt  on  10/11  at  01:50 AM

heh. “BasketCase” is the ringtone on my phone, and has been for years and years. since they first offered music as ringtones…

does anyone else remember the wear-two-pairs-of-socks thing? one longer than the other, in different colors?
i was on the dance team one year, and our uniform was black and “gold” (which translated to mustard yellow) and part of the uniform was the double-sock thing - a pair of black and a pair of yellow.
even WORSE was how the fashion seemed to trend, quickly, into wearing them jester style - on one foot, it was black on top yellow on bottom, on the other foot yellow on top and black on bottom.
::shudder::

why would we *DO* that? i mean, i lived in Northern CA, where it *routinely* reached 120F, as late as November! i remember *always* having hot, sweaty feet.

also: jeans with zippers on the pants cuffs. and then pulling your socks *over* the legs of the jeans…


i don’t have a problem with leggings, though (except i no longer look all that good in most of them) at least, non-stirrup leggings, without a horrible print - solid color, and something hip-length still looks fine to me. not the height of fashion, i admit, but not a horror. just… really casual.

and i miss flannels, i really do. i used to have 6 or 7, in different checked color patterns, to match pretty much everything, when it would start off in the morning at 60F or so, then get up to 100F in the afternoon - walked to school wearing the flannel, spent most of the day with it wrapped around my waist… ah, bliss. anymore, if you tie a shirt around your waist, people give you strange looks. i do it anyway, but i can’t wait till it’s not weird anymore smile

Comment #36: denelian  on  10/11  at  05:23 AM

Ok, had to jump back in here, but grolby and I were out riding our bikes this evening, and we a fellow riding a skateboard and wearing what seemed to be a pair of the awful shorts—they had a name but i can’t recall it at the moment.  You know, sorta looked like a bathing suit, but without the liner, usually came in neon patterns that made your eyes want to bleed, made of some synthetic fabric.  Anyway, this pair wasn’t neon or anything, but they were several different black-and-white patterns.

Comment #37: rowmyboat  on  10/11  at  09:07 PM

@ rowmyboat:  You mean “Jams”?

Comment #38: FlipYrWhig  on  10/12  at  12:20 AM
Page 1 of 1 pages
Commenting is not available in this channel entry.